Tag Archives: Expedition

14, 15 & 16 June 2015 – Brussels, Waterloo, et en France

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Bit of a catch-up post as I should hit Paris tomorrow, and want to be up-to-date blog wise. I’ve come quite a long way in the last few days, well mostly today really, and am now firmly en France. Here are my routes and stats for the last few days.

There are 3 entries for 14 June, due to my Garmin crashing twice; it sometimes freezes when I’m using it to actually navigate somewhere, rather than just record my route.

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/803827972
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/803828064
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/803938255

15 June: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/805092925

16 June: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/805983261

–> 14 June
Last night I’d only been thinking nothing had broken in a while, so it wasn’t really much of a surprise to find myself fixing one of my rear panniers before setting off in the morning, or that my tent zip had broken; I’d have a go at fixing that later. Luckily I’ve brought some spare bits for my panniers, and could replace the bolt that had pinged off somewhere from the rack attachment.

Today was a sort of rest day anyway, in that I wasn’t intending to go very far; ended up covering about 70km, in 4hrs 30 mins, so still went a fair distance in the end. After mending stuff I packed up slowly and said goodbye to River and Eugene, who left for the airport & Barcelona, and Amsterdam respectively. Good luck guys!

First stop for me was Brussels, which is only about 10km down the road from Grimbergen. Getting into the city was pretty straightforward, and I had a good walk around, taking in the central square in the old town, and cathedral. It’s always tricky in a busy city, packed with tourists taking photos and moving about randomly, when you have a heavy bike to deal with, but I made it through. The Friteries smelt very tempting, but the queues were massive and not really an option with the bike; one of those occasions when you need a travelling companion – Lobster just doesn’t cut it in these scenarios.

As well as all the other people taking photos I took a few, here is a selection.

I might have labelled some of those wrongly, and would welcome any corrections; I’ll try to look them over again when I have more time.

Brussels is certainly a melting pot of cultures, and a great place to visit. I guess it puts Belgium on the map, it being the seat of the European Parliament and where Nato is based. There’s a buzz to the city, and it’s definitely on the list to come back to at some point. It was great to hear people speaking French too, as well as signs being in French; finally a language I’m more familiar with. To be fair though I heard all sorts of languages being spoken from Flemish and French, to English, German, Italian, Chinese and several others.

After a couple of hours I tried to extricate myself from the city, which was easier said than done. It took me about an hour to get to the outskirts and on the road to Waterloo, with a lot of bumping about on cobbles, and getting stuck in traffic. I also had to be very careful not to get ensnared by tram lines!

Tram lines - deadly for cyclists if your wheel gets caught in them

Tram lines – deadly for cyclists if your wheel gets caught in them

A strange thing happened as I rode South; I started encountering gradients, hills had entered the fray once again. It was actually very nice to pedal up and down a few hills after mostly riding across flat landscapes for several days, and you get more variety on the scenery front.

Nice church on outskirts of Brussels; in Alsemberg

Nice church on outskirts of Brussels; in Alsemberg

I rode on to the town of Waterloo, bumping about on the unfriendly Belgium roads, stopping briefly in the town where there are a couple of museums, before pedalling on to the Butte du Lion, the site of the Battle of Waterloo.

The battle site has a few signs showing you where Wellington set up the defences to stop Napoleon reaching Brussels, and where the French cavalry, about 8,000 of them, charged the Allied defensive squares; they were repulsed but after a lot of casualties, and some of the squares were broken. Then the French elite Imperial Guard attacked, but were driven back. Wellington sounded the advance and the battle was won. That’s a rough summary anyway, it’s mostly potato fields and coach loads of tourists now. These signs amused me:

I continued through the countryside, passing through Nivelles towards Charleroi, stopping at the Trieu du Bois campsite in Luttre, just down from Pont-a-Celles.

Crossing to Pont-a-Celles

Crossing to Pont-a-Celles

After a relatively easy day, despite the bumpy roads, it was nice chilling out at the campsite; a tranquil spot next to the Brussels-Charleroi canal. The campsite owner brought me a chair; a total luxury for a cycle tourer.

I also managed to fix my tent zip, which wasn’t easy but came as something of a relief.

I’d definitely recommend this small but lovely campsite if you’re in the area, good wifi too. I chatted to a couple of French cycle tourers from Lille, on their way to Namur, and a Dutch motorcyclist on his way home and intending to ride 1,000km tomorrow; bit further than I’ll manage. Also did a bit of beard maintenance, keeping it for the time being, and fell asleep listening to the sound of lots of frogs going ribbet.

–> 15 June 
Bit further today; 97km covered in 5hrs and 45 mins. I noticed my front tyre was flat when I emerged from my tent, so I had to fix that before getting on the road. I just used a new inner tube this time, but found the puncture in the old one, which is already patched; a tiny pin prick whole which I can patch later. I couldn’t find what caused it which is always a worry, as it might still be in the tyre.

Packed up post puncture fix - at Trieu du Bois

Packed up post puncture fix – at Trieu du Bois

The two French tourers left before me, as did the Dutch motorcyclist, however I wasn’t far behind them despite the puncture. i turned right out of the campsite onto the canal path, hoping it would take me to the centre of Charleroi; it looked like it should.

On the towpath to Charleroi

On the towpath to Charleroi

Canal connects Charleroi to Brussels and still used lots

Canal connects Charleroi to Brussels and still used lots

I caught up with the French tourers on the outskirts of Charleroi, as they tried to find the route to Namur. I was similarly confused in my attempts to get into the city. The cycle path signposts had vanished, and the canal path I’d been followed stopped at a factory. I eventually made it into the centre but really shouldn’t have bothered; it was a bit like making my way into a more industrialised version of Mordor, and I’m sure I passed a gateway to Hades at one point.

Charleroi itself wasn’t much better, but I felt a sense of achievement at having penetrated its defences and making it to the Crack of Doom; could’ve done with the Eagles coming to carry me back out of the city though. It’s a bit of a dead place, very industrial which harkens back to its origins, but now just dirty and smelly with not much greenery. Maybe the overcast day didn’t help, but I’d been hoping for a bit more as I joined up with Eurvelo 3; didn’t see any signs for that by the way.

I made my way out by roughly the same route, but on roads as opposed to the canal paths; they were busy, narrow, and had lots of lorries. Thankfully the situation improved when I reached a lovely canal path, starting at Landelies (I could have probably joined it earlier if there’d been adequate signage), and staying on it all the way to Thuin.

The canal path wound through forested hills, with the occasional lock, a few boats chugging along slowly, and no traffic; bliss after Charleroi, which on a good point provided an excellent contrast.

After lunch in Thuin I cycled South West to the  border with France, crossing at a small village called Bousignies-sur-Roc; there were no signs to suggest I’d entered France, however my phone changed to a new provider and I got a text alerting me to the fact.

Entering France via Bousignies-sur-Roc

Entering France via Bousignies-sur-Roc

The rest of the ride down to Fourmies was very pleasant, if a little hilly in bits (legs coped fine), however the roads were much smoother compared with Belgium, and it felt good being in France finally.

Solre-le-Château - spire looks wonky

Solre-le-Château – spire looks wonky

I pedalled through a big forest; Parc Departmental du Val Joly, where there are wild boar, wild cats, deer, and all sorts of other Flora and Fauna. I stopped for a banana break; Lobster spotted a squirrel but little else.

I stopped in Fourmies, and the campsite at Etang-des-Moines, having made fairly good time; only €9 for the campsite too. After setting up I nipped to le Supermarche then feasted on salad, pasta, bread and nearly a whole Camembert, fruit, chocolate, and a few Grimbergen Blonde beers; a worthy meal to celebrate a new country.

Etang des Moines camping

Etang des Moines camping

I’m glad to be in France, a country I’ve always been comfortable with, perhaps because I can speak more of the language, but also because I lived in Marseille for nearly a year. I like the lifestyle and people, and am looking forward to the next week or so as I make my way to Spain, then the leg along the Mediterranean coast post Tarifa. The campsite was quiet so I spent the evening route planning and relaxing listening to music; the North Easterly wind made it a bit chilly so it wasn’t long before I burrowed into my tent.

Lobster assisting with route planning, with beer, what could possibly go wrong

Lobster assisting with route planning, with beer, what could possibly go wrong

–> 16 June
Today’s been a great day; 142km in 7hrs and 20 mins, riding down smooth and quiet French roads – sorry Belgium, it was good to visit, and there were bits I liked, but I’m not sad to leave. I left the campsite in good time, at 08.30, feeling energised after last night’s feast and finishing off the Camembert for breakfast.

Etang des Moines camping

Etang des Moines camping

From Fourmies I rode down to Wimy, and stumbled upon a Eurvelo 3 sign, will wonders never cease?!

First Eurovelo 3 sign of the tour

First Eurovelo 3 sign of the tour

With sun shining it was a lovely ride down the cycle track, all the way to Guise. I had the path pretty much to myself, aside from many cows in the surrounding fields. It wound through woodland as well as fields of corn, and the occasional village. I’m wondering if it was an old railway track as it was pretty flat, and made for easy riding, aside from the gravel surface which was a bit grating and kept flicking up under my mud-guards.

My chain slipped a couple of times, probably because of the gravel, but it reminded me that I need to get it changed when I get to Paris. After Guise I continued on through the countryside to St. Quentin, and had a break for lunch; loving the boulangeries! St. Quentin is a lovely city, with a few poignant reminders of World Wars 1 and 2.

It was a bit of a diversion to visit St. Quentin, but worth it. From there I rode South West on a long but very enjoyable ride towards Compiegne, passing a number of war cemeteries which made me reflect on how lucky we are in more recent times, and how I can ride through countryside enjoying myself in an area which was once the front line in two fierce wars, with so many killed and injured; I realise there are some horrible wars going on in other parts of the world but this bit is nice.

I didn’t go all the way to Compiegne, instead turning South to Vic-sur-Aisne and the La Croix De Vieux Port campsite. Before getting there I had to negotiate a few particularly steep climbs, which were difficult in the heat and after 120km already done; a road signposted up the ‘Old Mountain’ (nears Cuts) filled me with apprehension, but it was lovely and shaded, and I stopped for a break at the top.

La Croix De Vieux Port proved to be a great campsite, with a €10 special rate for cycle tourers. The owner also complimented me on my French, so it can’t be too rusty, and showed me to a quiet camping area away from the masses; there are a lot of Brits on holiday here, and it’s been nice chatting to a few.

Tranquil camping spot

Tranquil camping spot

The site has a restaurant, pizzeria, bar, swimming pools, bowling and lots of other stuff by the looks of it, and would be quite a good place for a family break judging from all the children and their slightly exasperated parents chasing them about. I relaxed and had a pizza; could’ve eaten two and might go back for another in a minute.

Pizza at La Croix De Vieux Pont

Pizza at La Croix De Vieux Pont

I’m thinking about stopping in Salamanca for my birthday, a reasonable distance to pedal between now and 05 July. I could probably get further but need to throw in a day to get the bike serviced, and might incorporate a few detours when I get to Spain. Tomorrow it’s on to Paris and hopefully a campsite on the edge of Bois de Bologne; I shall probably have a rest day there to do some wandering about, and get a new chain and rear cassette fitted.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good bike shop in Paris? There must be loads.

12 & 13 June 2015 – to Belgium and good beer

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Routes and stats for the last two days below, although my Garmin randomly turned itself off a couple of times, so there are two entries for each day:

12 June:
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/801825032
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/801825063

13 June:
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/802836559
https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/802836588

The 12 June saw me cycle 117km in 6hrs and 45 mins. It was already hot when I was packing up, so I knew I was in for a scorcher. The temperature has rocketed over the last few days, got to 22 degrees Celsius by 10.30, and over 30 degrees Celsius shortly afterwards. You don’t notice it on a bike so much as you have a constant draft, but it’s hot when you stop, and you have to remember to drink a lot of water even if you don’t feel like it.

Ready for a hot day; time for the pirate look

Ready for a hot day; time for the pirate look

I attempted to pay at reception on my way out of the campsite, however the owner just waved me through with a smile; very nice of him and a bonus night’s free camping! I’ll put the money into the beer kitty. From Alverna and Nijgemen I made my way South West following cycle paths and ‘Nodes’, with a little help from my map. There were a couple of confusing bits when I mixed up numbers, however all-in-all the cycle network in Holland works really well, and the paths and roads are lovely and smooth.

Windmill - I'm in Holland after all

Windmill – I’m in Holland after all

I don’t have any complaints about the drivers either, mostly because I wasn’t on the road so didn’t encounter many, however the few times I did they gave me priority and were courteous.

Bridge over the La Meuse

Bridge over the La Meuse

In Holland they have strangely shaped objects by the side of the road that I was initially unsure as to the purpose of; they’re bins, and perfectly positioned and angled to throw stuff in as you’re cycling along, an excellent invention. Some are metal and some just have nets; here’s one of the latter.

Holland - an example of a most excellent roadside bin

Holland – an example of a most excellent roadside bin

I stopped for a refuel at a convenient McDonalds about 11.30, feeling hungry after a meagre breakfast, but also because they have air conditioning and free wi-fi. I hadn’t realised quite how hot it had got until I went back outside. Shortly afterwards I was pedalling into Eindhoven, an old city but one that appeared very modern. I walked through the centre, which was bustling with activity, but as mentioned in my post yesterday akin to most big metropolis; same shops etc.

After Eindhoven it was on to Reusel, and across the border into Belgium. It was a slightly longer ride than anticipated due to the cycle route going a different way to my planned route, however still got me to the right place. As I rode along I contemplated what would/will happen if/when the sea level rises. I’ve been pedalling across a lot of flat land, over bridges, rivers and canals, and a lot of it is only just above, or even below sea level. I believe Holland has some major sea defences however I fear they’ll need them in years to come.

Into Belgium

Into Belgium

They speak Flemish in this part of Belgium, so I’m still resorting to English, however I can switch to French a bit further South; probably once I reach Brussels.

De province Antwerpen

De province Antwerpen

Once I’d crossed the border I unfortunately noticed an immediate deterioration in cycle paths, and road surfaces in general. I think I’ve grown used to the luxuries of Holland, and to only a slightly lesser extent Germany, and will need to toughen up again.

Cycle paths not so good in Belgium

Cycle paths not so good in Belgium

Passed a great horse-drawn bus just inside Belgium, being steered with much enthusiasm by a slightly crazed looking and sounding driver; could have been something out of Harry Potter.

I passed through Arendonk, and on to Oud-Turnhout where I stopped to buy supplies at Lidyl. They had tonic water going cheap, which was really refreshing and helped lessen the irritation from hay fever; I think the pollen count is really high at the moment and I’ll have to visit a pharmacie to get some anti-histamines.

When I get to a pharmacie I’ll also pick up some anti-chafing unguent, having discovered I left my chamois cream in Stockholm. Now the weather has gotten hotter I’m likely to need it more, having felt the first signs of rubbing today; something to avoid at all costs.

I made it through Turnhout, passing lots of people sitting out in bars in the main square enjoying Friday afternoon and no doubt the evening to come. I noticed a French look to the town, despite this still being a Flemish area, but it might just be my imagination.

Central square and church in Turnhout

Central square and church in Turnhout

Then it was on to the campsite North of the town, near Ravels; Baalse Hei which I found via ACSI. I used my Garmin to navigate to it, and ended up going a slightly strange route, involving some sandy paths which were impossible to cycle on. It reminded me of one of the initial days of my Bike around Britain tour in 2013, when I tried to cycle down a sandy path on the Norfolk coast and promptly did a stunt (=fell off my bike).

Interesting choice of route from my Garmin to Baasle Hei campsite

Interesting choice of route from my Garmin to Baasle Hei campsite

The campsite was a good one, and slightly more populated than the previous. I pitched up as a thunderstorm hit, which didn’t come as a complete surprise after the hot day, and was quite refreshing; my top needed a wash anyway.

Pitched at Baalse Hei - bit steamy post storm

Pitched at Baalse Hei – bit steamy post storm

After the au-naturel shower I thought I’d better have a soap based shower, then nipped to the campsite cafe for a lasagna, salad and chips before it closed. They have free campsite wide wi-fi so I was able to retreat to my tent once the cafe closed, to update my blog and plan tomorrow’s route; also caught up on the news as I’m completely out-of-touch – not a bad thing probably, however the Greek situation is worrying, as is MERS.

Interesting moth - nice wing pattern

Interesting moth – nice wing pattern

The moth was one of the friendly insects, most of the others were a pain; midges and mosquitos, which was the main reason I hid in my tent. Before shutting out the insects I had a quick chat with a German cycle tourist on a short break, reliving a tour from about 20 years ago; he was describing how things had changed, and some of the language difficulties.

Lake and fountain at Baalse Hei

Lake and fountain at Baalse Hei

My route planning culminated in a decision not to head to the coast and work my way around to Spain, but to head down to Eurovelo 3 at Charleroi, the Pilgrim’s route, and work my way through central France via Paris. So it’s on to Grimbergen, close to Brussels, tomorrow. I’ll need to buy a new map.

–>

I pedalled a meagre 82km on 13 June, in just over 5 hours, but it was all I’d planned on doing in any case. I’m also suffering slightly from BRF (Belgium Road Fatigue); they’re a lot more bumpy than the ones in Holland and Germany. The cycle tourer I just met, from Taiwan, totally agrees, and has the same problem with slightly painful hands and wrists after riding for a while, because of all the jarring.

Packed and ready for another day in Belgium

Packed and ready for another day in Belgium

After a dry night it decided to rain as I packed up, typical, however I just got on with it and was on the road by 10.00, leaving Baalse Hei campsite and heading back to Turnhout, taking a more direct route back into the town than last night’s slightly adventurous trail.

On the road to Turnhout - Copper Beach provides contrast

On the road to Turnhout – Copper Beach provides contrast

As I rode South West the rain stopped, but it remained overcast for a bit, which was pleasant after yesterday’s heat.

Albertkanaal in Belgium

Albertkanaal in Belgium

I crossed several canals as I pedalled through the countryside to Mechelen, a moderately sized town/city, not sure which. I’ve had to cycle on the road more in Belgium, and have noticed the drivers are becoming more like I’m used to in the UK; faster, less patient and more aggressive. This is no doubt a sign of things to come for the rest of the tour, as it’ll only get more frenetic as I head South.

Convenient place for a break - sign had info on Neolithic activity in the area

Convenient place for a break – sign had info on Neolithic activity in the area

Riding through the trees, sun's out

Riding through the trees, sun’s out

I passed through Putte, where the main street was closed for a fête of some description. There weren’t many people about despite all the stands. I stopped for a break and was the only one listening to a band playing ‘Blue Moon’, very well as it turned out; had it in my head for a few hours after that. They appreciated my solitary applause in any case, but it all felt a bit odd without even the semblance of a crowd.

Street fair in Putte - bit deserted

Street fair in Putte – bit deserted

Band playing 'Blue Moon'

Band playing ‘Blue Moon’

Anyway, where was I? Skipped back and forward a bit there, however here are some photos of Mechelen; some nice buildings, lots of flags, and lots of people sitting out in cafes.

Both Lobster and I were a bit confused by the fish head and lobster claw fountains, there was an octopus type one too. We both suspect a Cthulhu influence may be at work, which may explain the slightly deserted town fete in Putte…

I cycled on towards Grimbergen, my destination for the night, over a few more canals, and passing some donkeys just taking it easy in the good weather.

I was overtaken by yet another cycle club out for a Saturday ride, this time a large peloton; they didn’t bother using the bumpy cycle paths which would no doubt break their carbon road bikes quite quickly. I’ve mentioned the roads and cycle paths being bumpy already, and this continued to be the case, making me a bit tired and grumpy; the headwind and hay fever wasn’t helping either. A lot of the roads are made out of large concrete slabs, with joins every few metres which give you a regular jolt; annoying after a while.

Grimbergen proved to be a lovely small town, and very convenient for Brussels the following day. The campsite was the only one I could find in the area, is cheap, and had everything I needed including wi-fi near reception.

Gimbergen Church

Gimbergen Church

Almost immediately I met River, from Korea, who has been travelling the world for a few months visiting China, South America, the USA, and now Europe. He’d flown from Miami to Brussels last night, and is due to fly to Barcelona tomorrow; a bit random but the flight worked out cheaper that way. River works in restaurant in Seoul, but has decided like me to have some time off to explore and have an adventure; his restaurant sounds excellent, and he makes his own beer, so I’ll be sure to visit if I make it there some day. We walked into Grimbergen to explore and pick up a few supplies from the supermarket, and enjoyed a cold beer in he sunshine.

Grimbergen is famous for brewing beer, and I picked up a couple of local ones to enjoy back at the campsite. The weakest I could find was 6.7%, and they went up to well over that (10% +), alongside some Trappist brews. There’s a beer museum too, but we thought we’d enjoy drinking it rather than reading about it.

Lobster guarding a couple of 6.7% local brews

Lobster guarding a couple of 6.7% local brews

River told me a bit about his time in South America, which reinforced my desire to visit there one day, preferably on a bike. It sounds friendly, cheap, full of life and things to visit. He found the USA quite different; expensive, and unfortunately the people were colder, unless you paid them. He also mentioned the MERS virus which has hit Korea, and I’d read about last night; hope it peters out soon and no-one else dies.

Back at the campsite we met Eugene, a fellow cycle tourer, from Taiwan. He’s been pedalling around Europe for the last 6 months since finishing his PhD, starting off in the UK, and going all over the place since then. He’s only got a couple of weeks left before going back to Taiwan, then on the America to work.

River and Eugene - fellow travellers

River and Eugene – fellow travellers

A great evening was had, where I think we convinced River cycle touring is the way forward. Tomorrow I’m off to Brussels, then South towards Charleroi and Eurovelo 3, whereas Eugene is pedalling North towards Amsterdam. River of course is flying to Barcelona, and after that who knows, however it’s possible he’ll walk some of the Camino de Santiago so I might bump into him again; he might have to get a new tent before then, as his one from Wal-Mart, which he was extolling the virtues of, was apparently a bit drafty and chilly overnight!

10 & 11 June 2015 – to Holland and a heatwave

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Greetings from Belgium! As is often, if not always the case, my blog is a few days behind. You can usually catch up with where I actually am via my Twitter feed, which feeds into my blog site on the right hand side anyway. I could probably keep my blog more up-to-date by pedalling less, but I enjoy the pedalling bit and get frustrated if I don’t cover what I equate to a good distance each day; 60 miles on average, so nothing in comparison to the likes of Mark Beaumont on his Cairo to Capetown epic, but sufficient for me, and besides, my bike and gear is a lot heavier ;o)

I also get asked about rest days quite a bit. I sometimes have one, if I feel like it and it’s a nice spot, but I don’t generally yearn for them and can find myself getting twitchy and wanting to cover some more distance. I think for me at least half of this cycle touring malarkey is the journey not the destination, although I do have a few definite breaks planned for later on. Same with cities; some, like Hamburg, I click with and want to have a look around, others I can happily leave. I think I prefer the countryside and wilderness more, however a break in a cafe or roadside bar is always welcome!

Here are my routes and stats for the last couple of days, leaving Germany and cycling down into Holland:

10 June 2015: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/800978508

11 June 2015: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/799947473

The 10 June saw me cover 117km in about 6 hours and 20 minutes, enjoying some good riding through the last bit of Germany and into Holland.

Sunny day in Werlte

Sunny day in Werlte

I’m pretty sure I’ll be back in Germany later this year on my way back from Istanbul, probably via the Danube and Vienna, but I’ve yet to firm up those plans. Depending on time available before I have to go back to work I might have to get a train for some bits, but not if I keep up my current mileage. Lots of time for exploring yet!

It was a great ride through the countryside on my way past Meppen and on to Emlichheim, with a bit of a tail wind and loads of sunshine. I took a few cycle routes which went generally in the right direction, with a few interesting results.

River crossing near Meppen

River crossing near Meppen

River crossing near Meppen - narrow but serviceable bridge

River crossing near Meppen – narrow but serviceable bridge

The route turned into a forest path after this, but was still perfectly passable, just a bit bumpy.

Forest path on way to Meppen - keeping an eye out for tree root ambushes (and Orcs)

Forest path on way to Meppen – keeping an eye out for tree root ambushes (and Orcs)

After passing through Meppen and waving at an enormous group of cycle tourers going in the opposite direction, I headed West through Twist and on to Emlichheim, deftly avoiding a couple of close calls with water sprayers, much to Lobster’s disappointment.

After Emlichheim my maps got a bit vague as to how to get over the border, as they don’t show the really small roads, however I pointed my Garmin at Hardenberg and it did a superb job of directing me there (for once). I pedalled down small roads and tarmac’d tracks, and was suddenly in Holland almost without realising it. The only traffic came in the form of a few mopeds that generally use the cycle paths too.

Stuck in traffic on the way to Holland

Stuck in traffic on the way to Holland

I had to go down another ‘closed’ road at one point, however after navigating the last two successfully I took a risk, figuring the cycle path would probably still be open. Again the whole road was closed due to resurfacing, however the cycle path was mostly open, and I only had to duck under one JCB; I waved at the driver who waved back, so figured it was all okay.

Passed lots of cows and wind farms, as well as several nodding donkey oil wells in the last bit of Germany. Oh, and I’ve figured out why Lobster likes cows, apart from them making funny noises; they make milk which makes chocolate, which is his favourite thing.

In general cycling in Germany is good, with well signposted routes and maintained cycle paths, however Holland has proven to be a step up, with even better signage and wider, smoother, cycle paths; an absolute delight to pedal down.

One of my first Dutch cycle paths

One of my first Dutch cycle paths

Which made me pretty happy

Which made me pretty happy

There are even more people on bikes, which I wasn’t sure was possible after some parts of Scandinavia and Germany, and all, for the most part, riding sensibly. There’s a saying that Dutch people are born on a bike, albeit with stabilizers initially, which sounds a bit painful if you ask me.

The other thing I noticed today, both in Germany but more-so in Holland, was the number of ponies, mainly Shetland ponies (at least I assumed they were), and also horses; loads of them in paddocks, and thankfully little in the way of sheep.

Abundance of ponies - in Germany and Holland

Abundance of ponies – in Germany and Holland

Arriving in Ommen

Arriving in Ommen

So it was a great pedal down to Ommen, where I’d spotted the Recreatiecentrum Besthmenerburg campsite on my ACSI app. It turned out to be splendid site, and was cheapish at €11, with a perfect camping spot for people just staying one night.

Campsite near Ommen, nice spot in the woods

Campsite near Ommen, nice spot in the woods

I was just in time to catch the campsite snack bar before it closed, and quickly made my way there for a cold beer and some junk food to fuel tomorrow’s endeavours; had already had some salad etc in case you’re wondering! The restaurant also has free wifi, which was handy for planning and blogging purposes.

A Mexicana and chips; different from the Hamburg version of a Mexicana

A Mexicana and chips; different from the Hamburg version of a Mexicana

The campsite itself was very tranquil, with different camping and caravan/tourer areas dotted about in the forest, along with small lodges you can rent. It reminded me a bit of a Centre Parcs, but without the hordes of screaming children. The only downside was the midges and mosquitos, so it was time to break out the insect repellent which had mixed results. Still slept well though, and awoke refreshed to the sound of birds giving it there all.

Ready for another day on the road, in Ommen

Ready for another day on the road, in Ommen

There was a cockerel crowing too, from the small zoo area; it was an enormous bird which Lobster suggested he could use as an alternative steed.

The Besthmenerburg Cockerel

The Besthmenerburg Cockerel

Pretty sure it was bigger than the resident goats

Pretty sure it was bigger than the resident goats

The 11 June turned out to be mostly about cycling, covering 123km in about 6 hours and 40 minutes. It was just nice to pedal in good weather, along smooth and quiet cycle routes as I made my way down to Devanter, then on to Arnhem and Nijmegen. I didn’t stop in any town or city for a long time; they were busy and so much more hassle than the quiet countryside. It was just a joy to be riding, although my water consumption rocketed in the heat.

Before Arnhem I decided on a quick detour over the River IJssen to Bronkhorst, via a small €1 car ferry that was very popular, then down alongside the river on a dedicated cycle path and back over via another ferry. It was a great detour and I flew down the raised cycle path, which wasn’t on any of my maps or Garmin; the latter got a bit confused. There were lots of other cyclists out to say hello to.

Note on cycle routes in Holland; it’s all done my numbers or ‘nodes’. The number represents a destination you can find on the map, and you just follow the numbers on signposts until you get there. Pretty efficient, unless you don’t know the number you want, or get it mixed up, or forget it; I prefer place names. Thankfully there are also red signs with the place names on, most of the time.

I walked through a bit of Arnhem, which looked pretty much like the centre of most biggish cities, with the same shops (H&M, Mango, McDonalds, C&A, etc). I’m not sure what I’d been expecting really; I know I’ve watched a film involving Arnhem and a battle for the bridge, and there was no doubt a lot of fighting in the area in WW2, but I didn’t spot anything relating to it on my brief wander through. It was nice to cool down though, and pedalling over the bridge gave a good view.

I didn’t know anything about Nijgemen, but it was certainly bigger than I’d anticipated, and with a great bike parking area next to the station. Despite its size it was easy to cycle through and out of, although with the volume of cyclists on the cycle paths I had to take care not to bump into anyone, or be bumped into; lots of people going at different speeds, and saw several close calls.

There was one casualty; the rear reflector fell off my bike on a crossing, then got run over. Oops; I tightened it the other day but it must have worked loose again.

Rear reflector falls off and is run over

Rear reflector falls off and is run over

Via a bit of a roundabout route I made it to Alverna and another campsite I’d found on the ACSI app. Reception was closed but the staff at the bar next to it telephoned the owner who just said to pitch up and he’d be over at some point; the shower and toilet blocks were all open anyway.

Solitary camper at site near Alverna

Solitary camper at site near Alverna

There were no other campers around, but quite a few people in the lodges/caravans; don’t know if they live there all the time or if there just holiday homes – some of the ‘lodges’ were very done up. On a walk-about to fill up my water bottles I passed one Dad giving his young (under 8 I reckon) son pretty vigorous kickboxing lessons; rather him than me.

Set for another night under canvas in Alverna

Set for another night under canvas in Alverna

Unfortunately I’d forgotten to shop, so dinner was slightly limited involving radishes, a bit of bread and chocolate, then toasties and beer from the same bar. I’d have had something more substantial from the menu but toasties was all they did, and honestly, that was fine, especially accompanied by a couple of cold ones.

Good cheese and ham toasties though

Good cheese and ham toasties though

I stayed at the bar for a bit, chatting to the locals; it was very much a ‘local’ bar, and lots of people were smoking inside which is still legal Holland, but was a bit odd after it’s been banned in the UK for so long. One patron was preparing to leave for India a bit later this year, via the Himalayas; India and Nepal would be great for a cycle trip. I retreated after the music got just a bit too Europop; there’s only so much Vengaboys, Ace of Base, mixed in with Shakira, that one can take.

Set for another night under canvas in Alverna

Set for another night under canvas in Alverna

Back at the tent it was all quiet, aside from a few largish bats flitting about after insects. I’ve still got Vengaboys going round my head now!

Apologies for any typos or randomness; I’m in my tent after a very hot day (it’s still boiling now), besieged by insects of many varieties. Most of them seem to want a piece of me. What we need now is a big thunderstorm to clear the air.

08 and 09 June 2015 – Hamburg to Bremen, and heading West

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Since Hamburg I’ve been pedalling for 3 days, so a bit of a blog catch-up is in order. I’ll cover the 08 and 09 May on this post, and might get to today’s ride later, if not tomorrow; in Holland now, where cycling is just a pleasure.

Here are links to the routes and stats from the last couple of days:

08 May: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/799082018

09 May: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/799082125

–> 08 May 2015
I was frankly surprised not to have a hangover after a very good night out in Hamburg, however I’ve noticed before that a lot of cycling tends to reduce the severity of hangovers, plus I probably don’t drink as much as it goes to my head more quickly after all the pedalling.

First order of the day was to find a bike shop to get some replacement inner tubes, just in case. Reception pointed me in the direction of a few local to St Pauli, and whilst I couldn’t find any tubes that were exactly the right size, I bought a couple that will do the job, should the need arise. Again most inner tubes in Europe seem to use Presta valves, however I found one in one shop with a Schrader valve, and another in another shop that was Presta; my pump will work with both so think we’re good. I got my stand tightened up too, however I don’t think I’d better use it as the metal has fatigued where it joins on to the bike, and will eventually break; not structurally integral to the frame but annoying none the less. I might get a replacement stand fitted to another part of the bike, or use the forked stick trick; not vital in any case.

One other addition to the bike; added a St Pauli Jolly Roger sticker, their unofficial logo, to my panniers. I need to remember to get more stickers to add on my travels.

St Pauli Jolly Roger

St Pauli Jolly Roger

I’ll have to start thinking about getting Smaug serviced soon, and maybe a new chain and rear cassette, but I’m loathed to change anything whilst it’s all working. Will get the chain checked for stretch anyway.

Once back at the hostel I packed up and said goodbye to Alex, before hitting the road towards Bremen.

Preparing to leave Hamburg - with Alex, my compadre from last night

Preparing to leave Hamburg – with Alex, my compadre from last night

Alex was flying back to London later that day; weird to think the flight takes 1 hour, whereas it’ll take me another 5 months, admittedly via a rather roundabout route.

The rest of the day was fairly straightforward riding. I pedalled North West out of St Pauli, alongside the River Elbe, chatting to a few random people along the way (friendly place Hamburg), and got the ferry over to Neuen. You don’t quite realise how big Hamburg port is until you see it – goes on for ages.

Bit of Hamburg port

Bit of Hamburg port

Cool fountain in Altona, Hamburg

Cool fountain in Altona, Hamburg

On the ferry I ended up speaking to a man who is finishing his job in a week, and going hiking in the Alps for 7 months; amazing who you randomly bump into.

Smaug on-board passenger ferry across the Elbe

Smaug on-board passenger ferry across the Elbe

Then it was a case of skirting around the airport and heading South to Bremen, albeit it via a rather ‘scenic’ route.

Road to Bremen 1

Road to Bremen 1

ALERT – this post is being temporarily taken over by the CCFC – Crustacean Committee for Corrections. So, Lobster here, we did not take the ‘scenic’ route, the human pedalling the bike, known as James, went the wrong way because he wasn’t paying attention to sign posts. What a dufus. Probably added 20km on to the day’s ride, and meant we nearly ran out of chocolate, which would have been a crisis not worth thinking about. I had to take over the navigation for the rest of the ride; it was quite boring, apart from the cows who are funny, and the bit where James got sprayed with water from a farmer’s irrigation spraying device thingy; that was very funny. Luckily I have a carapace and am not averse to water, unless it’s hot, so it didn’t bother me.

Through the countryside to Bremen

Through the countryside to Bremen

Ahem, yeah okay, we might’ve gone the wrong way for a bit, but it wasn’t that big a detour, and we had an emergency McDonalds when we got to the outskirts of Bremen to make up for it; they accepted MasterCard, which was handy as I was running out of cash. It’s really quite tricky to find a cashpoint that accepts anything other than Eurocard/Maestro in Germany.

Wizards Tower on the outskirts of Hamburg

Wizards Tower on the outskirts of Hamburg

I found the campsite relatively easily – Stadtwaldsee, on the outskirts of the city, and unfortunately right next to the motorway so it was a bit noisy.

Stadtwaldsee Campingplatz, Bremen

Stadtwaldsee Campingplatz, Bremen

I had enough cash for the campsite, but not for the restaurant, which also didn’t accept MasterCard, so instead ate some biscuits and had a relatively early night. Tomorrow I’d find an ATM and get out a decent amount of cash so I don’t run short again. There were quite a few other tourers at the campsite, including a couple of French guys heading North; more and more cycle tourers as I head South.

Nice sunset at Stadtwaldsee

Nice sunset at Stadtwaldsee

118km pedalled, in 6.5 hours.

–> 09 May 2015
Today wasn’t an amazingly exciting day, but I covered a good distance and it was good to see Bremen, even if I did spend most of my time looking for an ATM that would accept MasterCard or VISA.

Visit from a Hare in Stadtwaldsee

Visit from a Hare in Stadtwaldsee


Smaug ready for another day on the road

Smaug ready for another day on the road

I headed into Bremen on cycle paths, taking care to avoid the trams, as well as tram lines which can be lethal if you get your wheel caught in them. I went straight to the historic Market Square, where the World Heritage listed town hall (Rathaus) can be found. I glanced at it then found the Tourist Information office who were able to point me in the direction of a couple of banks that would accept my cards; ended up at a Santander and withdrew some Euros – a big relief, and I can buy food now! I could also use the free wifi at the Tourist Info office to check my route for the day, and my emails etc, very handy, and meant I was able to check-in and get spotted on the Bremen marketplace web cam.

Bremen webcam shot

Bremen webcam shot

Bremen has a lot of older buildings, compared with Hamburg; here are a few photos from taken on my meanderings.

Somewhat relieved to not be penniless still, I made my way over the river and cycled to Delmenhorst, passing a ship called the Admiral Nelson on the river – probably a restaurant by the looks of it.

The Admiral Nelson

The Admiral Nelson

I was paying particular attention to signposts, so as not to take any unplanned detours, and to avoid a Lobster takeover again. It doesn’t help when the signs are missing from the posts, however a combination of maps and my Garmin saw me out of the city and suburbs, and into the countryside.

Fields of Barley with cornflowers

Fields of Barley with cornflowers

The roads took me through fields of Barley, where cornflowers added a vibrant purple colour to the landscape. There were cows too, much to Lobster’s delight; I don’t know why he likes them so much.

At one point I opted to risk it and continue down a cycle path next to a road that was allegedly closed. It turned out fine, just like the other day – the road was being resurfaced but the path was open still. They don’t do things by halves in Germany; if the road needs mending they close the whole thing and get it done quick.

Road being resurfaced but cycle path open

Road being resurfaced but cycle path open

The route to Werlte, my destination for the night, was easy-going and well signposted, with the next village on my map always having a handy sign to point me in the right direction. There were no hills to speak of either, so despite the 112km it felt like an easy day. My only complaint is that some of the cycle paths can get unexpectedly bumpy at times. Tree roots growing under the tarmac can ambush you, and are a little jarring to say the least. It doesn’t help that I’m a bit paranoid about my wheels, both spokes and punctures, so am constantly checking them.

Before checking in at the campsite I did a shopping run to Lidyl, and probably bought too much now I’ve got some money, however I’m sure it’ll all get eaten.

Smaug loaded with supplies

Smaug loaded with supplies

There were some interesting garden ornaments in a nearby garden centre; these are just a few of them.

German garden ornaments, not quite gnomes, but purple sheep are, urr, interesting

German garden ornaments, not quite gnomes, but purple sheep are, urr, interesting

I don’t think I can fit anything like the above in my panniers, so friends and relatives are probably safe, this time around.

The Humminglingerland/Werlte Campingplatz is a great campsite, and I’d arrived in good time; it was cheap at €6.50, and has free wifi. There’s no restaurant, but I didn’t need one tonight, and it’s lovely and quiet so I was just able to chill out for a while in the sunshine, enjoy a mug of wine and the birds singing; je suis tres sophistique, non?

Chilling out Humminglingerland/Werlte campsite

Chilling out Humminglingerland/Werlte campsite

I had some radishes too, so getting my 5-a-day, or thereabouts.

Radishes - awesome and wholesome

Radishes – awesome and wholesome

A bit of planning saw me work out my route to the Netherlands, however I’m still undecided on whether to visit Amsterdam or not; going towards ‘not’ at the moment, as it could just be a lot of hassle with my bike. I’ll make up my mind tomorrow, and try and work out where I’ll be around my  birthday for the purpose of family visitations; looking forward to that!

07 June 2015 – Hamburg and St Pauli, a day off

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Well, almost a day off, I did a bit of cycling (28km), some to get to St. Pauli and the hostel where I was staying, and then a quick sightseeing tour of the city. Routes and stats below:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/799081745

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/799081879

After a somewhat restless night I had a bit of a lie in, I didn’t have far to go after all, but was still up and ready to go by about 10.00. Yannick, who I’d met the day before, pedalled off on his way to Puttgarden, to get the ferry over to Denmark; one of the routes I’d considered, but from the other direction.

Yannick - off to Denmark and then Sweden to Norway

Yannick – off to Denmark and then Sweden to Norway

Good luck with your tour Yannick; hope the new saddle works and your leg improves. Nice to know I’m not the only one who encounters bike issues that can have knock on effects.

It was only a short ride into Hamburg centrum, and pretty straightforward in comparison to some cities (mostly British ones). After riding past an Ikea, who’d have thought it, I passed the Specialised bike shop Yannick had mentioned yesterday, where I’d hoped I might be able to get new inner tubes and fix my stand. Unfortunately like most shops in Hamburg/Germany it was closed on a Sunday; cool Fat Bike in the window though.

An Ikea in Hamburg, what a surprise...

An Ikea in Hamburg, what a surprise…

It’s actually quite refreshing to see shops closed on a Sunday, and a city calm down a bit. I know for a lot of people it’s very convenient to be able to shop on a Sunday, especially if you work the rest of the week. Still think it would be nice if everyone could have Sunday off, and give everything a rest; restaurants, cafes and pubs aside, need them to stay open for calorie loading purposes!

Specialised bike shop, closed unfortunately, but cool fat bike

Specialised bike shop, closed unfortunately, but cool fat bike

I made it down to the River Elbe, and realised I’d forgotten to take a photo of the online map showing the location of my hostel.

Made it into Hamburg unscathed

Made it into Hamburg unscathed

I didn’t want to use any more data roaming, after clocking up a rather large unintentional bill, so went to the tourist information office instead and got a free local map. Not sure if I’ve already mentioned the rather unexpected bill I got from Vodafone, however I thought I could use the free data test drive I’m on, which gives me unlimited data until later this month, in Europe with the £3 a day Eurotraveller deal. Unfortunately it turns out I can’t, and that the £3 a day deal only applies to the 3GB standard data I get each month; I really wish they’d told me this in the shop when I said I’d be going to Europe for 6 months. Needless to say the resulting bill is a lot more than my standard £19 a month, but I’ll just have to put it down to experience and move on. I did talk to a Vodafone rep about it online, and they gave me an extra 2GB of data for this month, but wouldn’t refund what I’d already been charged for because apparently it says the test drive isn’t included somewhere on their website.

Anyway, back to Hamburg; loads of bikes around again, including lots for hire like the ones below.

Lots of Boris Bike equivalents on offer, and red too, good choice

Lots of Boris Bike equivalents on offer, and red too, good choice

As is normal with all the European towns and cities I’ve been through so far on this tour, you can cycle on most pavements, with a lane allotted to you, and you have right of way most of the time. Really very impressed with cycling in towns in Scandinavia and Germany; good signs most of the time too.

Using the map from Tourist Info I located the street the Backpackers Hostel is on, in the St. Pauli area of Hamburg, and slowly made my way there after checking out a bit of the waterfront and Fish Market. I also rode down the Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s Sinful Mile, centre of a lot of the city’s nightlife and Red Light District; maybe Europe’s most famous Red Light District.

Reeperbahn means Rope Walk, as it’s where the cities ropes used to be made in the 17th and 18th centuries. Close to the river I expect all the sailors used to pile into the Reeperbahn to spend their money after being at sea for ages, and hence the entertainment area took shape. It’s really quite a bizarre place with theatres, restaurants, a big market and bars, intermingled with sex shops, strip joints, and McDonalds, as well as Currywurst stalls! I also noticed a lot of people living on the street, quite literally, a theme repeated throughout much of Hamburg, which is a big contrast to the obvious wealth of the city, with a lot of millionaires living here.

The Backpackers hostel is on the side streets of St Pauli, in a quiet area. Upon arrival I was greeted by Tanya, who manages the joint and is very friendly and helpful. I couldn’t check in until 15.00, so relaxed for couple of hours enjoying a local beer, Astra, in the sunshine. Beer in Germany is so much cheaper than Scandinavia, where I didn’t really drink, and Astra is excellent at €2 or less a bottle. I also got talking to Alex, who was staying at the hostel and offered to show me around later. He’s a veteran of Hamburg having lived here for several months a few years back, and is passionate about the city. He was just visiting for the weekend this time around, and recommended a local kebab shop, so after checking in I nipped out to get some food, being forever hungry as usual.

Mr Kebab - a most excellent Turkish purveyor of quality foodstuffs

Mr Kebab – a most excellent Turkish purveyor of quality foodstuffs

The Kebab was excellent, probably the best Doner I’ve ever had; delicious lamb surrounded by crisp bread, with salad and a yoghurt based sauce, all for €4. Whilst enjoying it I had a walk around the back streets of St Pauli.

Best Doner Kebab I think I've ever had

Best Doner Kebab I think I’ve ever had

There are a lot of Turkish immigrants in the city, many having moved here after the Second World War; I think they helped rebuild Hamburg after much of it was destroyed by the RAF and USAF. I read that in one operation called Gomorrah, the RAF and their US counterparts bombed Hamburg with incendiaries, creating firestorm that killed over 40,000 civilians and practically destroyed the city. It felt a bit odd wandering through the narrow streets, years after those terrible times, thinking about such things and what it would have been like in war-time.

It’s a very relaxed area now, especially in the sunshine, and has a very Bohemian atmosphere to it. There’s a lot of graffiti too, and not all of it good. People were sitting out in cafes, or just on the pavement, chatting and drinking coffee or cold beer.

St Pauli wall art

St Pauli wall art

Post Kebab I had a bit of a rest, then went out for a cycle around the city, heading to the centre and some of the parks. As well as the impressive looking town hall the parks were lovely, along with the lakes and waterways. Tourists abounded, as did street performers, expensive cars, and as mentioned before homeless people.

Being on a bike I could see a lot of Hamburg quite quickly, so was back at the Hostel in an hour and a half, in time for a quick shower then to meet up with Alex to head out for a few beers.

Alex proved an excellent guide, his passion for Hamburg coming across as he walked me around St Pauli and down to the waterfront. He showed me the house where the Beatles lived at a point quite early on in their careers, when they were resident in the city for quite some time. I think Hamburg proved quite a formative experience in shaping the band and their music.

Beatles house - plaque showing they live here

Beatles house – plaque showing they live here

If you didn’t have someone to show you, you probably wouldn’t find this vine shrouded doorway, and know this world-famous band once lived here; as always local knowledge is much better than any guidebook in getting to know a place.

Beatles house 2

Beatles house 2

We also walked past the Kaiserkeller, where the Beatles used to play, including at least one gig that went on for 12 hours. I think they played one show here with toilet seats around their heads for some reason.

Kaiserkeller - venue where Beatles used to play

Kaiserkeller – venue where Beatles used to play

Typical Reeperbahn side street

Typical Reeperbahn side street

From a cultural point of view I guess no visit to Hamburg would be complete without a wander through the Red Light District, a slightly odd experience having not encountered anything quite like it before.

Reeperbahn Red Light District - this street is closed to under 18's and women, unless the women work there

Reeperbahn Red Light District – this street is closed to under 18’s and women, unless the women work there

We walked through fairly swiftly, ignoring the invitations from various ‘shop’ windows and their employees!

Waterfront - the Elbe

Waterfront – the Elbe

After a walk along the waterfront we headed back into St Pauli for a few beers, and a Curryvurst. An excellent evening was had taking in a few different bars, one of them very English (the London Pub), and chatting about travelling, life, the universe and everything.

Alex also introduced me to a few of the local spirits/shots including one called Mexicana, which is like a Bloody Mary but with chilli, and different degrees of chilli depending on the bar; it was lovely. Here are a couple of others I tried, both warming.

Kuemmerling

Kuemmerling

Underberg

Underberg

Feeling decidedly merry we headed back to the hostel, stopping for another kebab on the way, just cos they’re so good here; I did mention I’m always hungry when cycle touring didn’t I?! It was nice to chill out with a few of the other residents in the common room; a few Australians over visiting Europe with their guitars, and one guy who works for VSO and has just got back after several months in Malaysia and China. Hostels are great places to meet up with diverse and interesting people, and to find out about new places you then add to your list of destinations you want to visit someday.

So a late night, but a great night, and many thanks to Alex for hosting it and bringing the city to life. Back to cycling posts tomorrow.

05 & 06 June 2015 – to Bad Bramstedt and Hamburg

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After an entertaining evening with Claudio, Larissa, Alex and Romulus I had a bit of a late start on 05 June, and still half asleep I left my shampoo in the campsite shower; won’t be the last time. I think there’s something karmic about leaving shampoo in campsite showers, as generally you find someone else has done the same at one of your subsequent campsites, and you can use that instead.

Morning in Jarplund; Stuttgart crew heading off to Flensburg

Morning in Jarplund; Stuttgart crew heading off to Flensburg

Claudio headed off early to get to a nearby garage for a tyre change before Iceland, and the others pedalled into Flensburg for a day’s sightseeing. It was good to meet them all, and probably marks the start of running into more tourers at campsites now I’m further South, and the touring season has started in earnest.

Sunny day in Jarplund - thumbs up to meeting more folks on the road

Sunny day in Jarplund – thumbs up to meeting more folks on the road

I set off about 10.00, and had a great day’s riding down to Bad Bramstedt, most of it on cycle paths, or pavement doubling as cycle paths that run next to the road. I covered 119km in 6 hours and 45 minutes of pedalling, but was on the road for quite a bit longer than that due to a puncture repair session. Here’s a link to my route and stats for 05 June:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/794919245

The only drawback of riding on some of the marked cycle paths, especially in the towns, is they’re a bit juddery, and can be stop/starty due to junctions, so I have to admit I didn’t use them all the time as it made progress too slow and increased discomfort in various body parts.

My route took me down to Schleswig, and on through gorgeous countryside, often lovely woodland; a lot of it Beech which is my favourite.

Riding through Beech woodland

Riding through Beech woodland

It was the hottest day of my tour yet, and the first time I’ve worn only one layer; just my Icebreaker top, plus my lightweight buff under my cycle helmet to stop sunburn on receding spots and the back of my neck.

Schleswig waterfront

Schleswig waterfront

Close to Dannewerk I decided to follow a cycle route that pointed in the right direction, disappearing into farmland. I was a little dubious as to what the route would turn into, after yesterday’s experiences on Route 8, but thought I’d give it a go.

Pedalling through farmland following a marked cycle route

Pedalling through farmland following a marked cycle route

It started off well enough but deteriorated into a farm track, which the bike coped with fine, but it knocked me about a bit; no suspension!

Cycle route turns expedition like near Dannewerk

Cycle route turns expedition like near Dannewerk

I think there must be an airbase near Dannewerk, as I’m pretty sure that’s what I passed at one point. I also passed a lot of wind turbines, doing their bit to help save the environment. I hope they checked the areas for bats, as wind turbines can have unfortunate effects on these delicate creatures due to the air pressure changes they create; causes bats to haemorrhage. Nearly everything humankind does has some sort of adverse impact on another species, even if we think we’re doing right; wind turbines can screw with bats and birds, tidal power with whales and dolphins. It’s a bit depressing really however I guess it’s a case of choosing the lesser of evils; got to be better than fossil fuelled power-stations.

Pedalling past lots of wind turbines

Pedalling past lots of wind turbines

I reached the 60km mark and noticed my front tyre was going flat. This was slightly vexing, but on such a fine day it was going to take a lot to annoy me. And besides, I was able to stop next to the village bakery/ice-cream shop so it wasn’t all bad.

Puncture repair in Hohn, Lobster claiming he's trying to help but pincers make it awkward

Puncture repair in Hohn, Lobster claiming he’s trying to help but pincers make it awkward

On examining the inner tube the last patch had come loose, maybe due to a combination of hot weather and friction. I tried to patch it but it wouldn’t take for some reason; I might’ve rushed it. I stopped for an ice-cream break to consider my next course of action.

Ice-cream break in Hohn

Ice-cream break in Hohn

Whilst mulling things over, and trying to keep Lobster away from MY ice-cream, a friendly local pointed me in the direction of a bike shop a few hundred metres down the road. Great I thought, I can just get a new inner tube. Unfortunately they didn’t have an inner tube in the right size, which is an issue I’ve previously had on this tour, however I dug out an old one I’d repaired from my panniers and put that on instead. It’s still going over 100m later so the repair job seems to have been a good one, touch wood. I’ll definitely be buying a few spares in Hamburg.

After a protracted break I got back to it and rode to the Nord Ostee Kanal, which I had to cross via a car ferry; only a short jaunt across the canal.

I still had quite a way to go to get down to Bad Bramstedt, so after the canal tried to speed up a bit, making good progress, aside from on the cobbled bits.

German roads often cobbled through villages

German roads often cobbled through villages

Riding along wooded roads very pleasant and shaded

Riding along wooded roads very pleasant and shaded

I arrived at Campingplatz Rolande in Bad Bramstedt a little later than anticipated, but reception was still open; I think the owner lives on site as he was wandering about doing stuff for most of the evening, including trying to speak to me in German which whilst appreciated wasn’t very successful as far as a two-way conversation goes.

The Campingplatz Rolande is a little small and quite noisy, but did the job for me after a fairly long and hot day in the saddle. The owner was able to supply me with a couple of cold beers which went down a treat.

Cold beer always brings a smile to my face

Cold beer always brings a smile to my face

Note – beard still present, decision still pending on its fate.

I passed quite a lot of other cycle tourers today, including one guy looking very relaxed on a recumbent. I noticed a lot of them seemed to be around retirement age, or older. I guess people have more time on their hands for touring once they’re retired, however I wonder if this was just today’s sample or if the trend will continue; great to see people travelling by bike well into their sixties and possibly seventies though.

I spent the rest of the evening trying to decide what to do next, settling on a short leg tomorrow to a campsite just on the outskirts of Hamburg, followed by a hostel for one night on Sunday. This will allow me to see a bit of the city, whilst not getting trapped there for too long, and it’ll save on money too; hostels are expensive on Saturday nights. It’ll also give me a chance to do some laundry! I need to think about getting Smaug serviced, as I’m pretty sure he’ll need a new chain soon, and maybe a new rear cassette, and the stand needs tightening; don’t have the right allen key and too wobbly to use at present.

Top tip: If there a flying bugs in your tent, and I had quite a lot mine, shine your torch into the porch area to lure them out, then shut the door quickly; worked well for me.

Luring the bugs out of my tent via head torch

Luring the bugs out of my tent via head torch

–> 06 June 2015

I had a rather broken night’s sleep, partly due to passing traffic which proved pretty noisy, but also due to the massive thunderstorm that struck about 03.00. I didn’t get out of my tent to watch, as I could quite happily see the lightning flashing from inside, followed by thunder and heavy rain. Thankfully I stayed dry again, and it probably explained all the thunder flies around earlier.

Today’s ride was just a short 38km down to the outskirts of Hamburg, which only took around 2 and half hours, at a pretty slow pace. Here’s a link to the route and stats:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/795595199

Not a lot to report from the ride. I did go around some road closed signs at one point, and just carried on to the next bit; they were resurfacing, but no-one was working on Saturday, and it was fine to cross the short stretch by bike.

Road closed - thou shalt not pass, unless you're on a bike

Road closed – thou shalt not pass, unless you’re on a bike

I made it down to the Knaus Campingpark in Hamburg just before midday, and checked in. To my surprise there was another cycle tourer with a Hilleburg Akto Tent right next to my spot. Yannick is from Belgium and currently touring up to Norway. It as great to meet up and chat about routes, bikes and share a few stories.

Another tourer with a Hilleburg Akto

Another tourer with a Hilleburg Akto

As the day progressed 3 more cycle tourers turned up, however I’ve only spoken to them briefly so far as I’ve been busy doing laundry, and a bit of bike cleaning/maintenance. One couple are on their way up to Sweden for some island hopping, so we shared a few route suggestions.

Laundry dome and drying; feeling accomplished

Laundry dome and drying; feeling accomplished

I’ve also discovered that, at least so far, MasterCard isn’t so widely accepted in Germany. This proved a problem whilst trying to get supplies in an Aldi earlier. I ended up having to take some cash out on my debit card, which’ll cost a lot more than using my Prepaid Travel card; something I’ll have to prepare for in Germany, however I reckon l be able to use it more easily in the centre of Hamburg.

That’s all for today. Blog now up-to-date. Tomorrow I head into Hamburg for some sightseeing, but also to visit a bike shop or two to top-up on inner tubes and get a couple of things fixed.

04 June 2015 – willkommen in Deutschland

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I woke up and listened; only a faint rustling of the tent canvas, the wind had dropped, and it was sunny! Could this be the glorious day’s cycling I’d been waiting for?

Morning in Svendborg - glorious day

Morning in Svendborg – glorious day

Feeling buoyed by the thought that today was going to be a good’un, and with a new country in my sights, I was up, breakfasted and packed in good time. The campsite cat brought me a present, a mouse wrapped in leaves, which was a bit odd, and then ducks started following me around.

Stalked by Mallards

Stalked by Mallards

When the goats in the mini zoo started bleating I started to wonder if I’d developed Dr Doolittle traits overnight, or maybe this was all a dream and I was in fact still asleep, and it wasn’t such a nice day after all. Not wanting to consider the latter a possibility I got on the road quick.

Svendborg Sund Camping morning view 2

Svendborg Sund Camping morning view 2

There were plenty of people up early, paddling in canoes, or sailing in small yachts down the narrow stretch of water between the campsite and Svendborg. It all felt very relaxed and holiday like.

Goodbye Mallard

Goodbye Mallard

I rode over the bridge to Svendborg and then turned left, following nice cycle paths alongside the road to Faaborg. The scenery was more varied and interesting than yesterday, with a few hills thrown in for good measure.

It was so nice to be cycling without a headwind. I hardly looked at my Odometer, and could just relax and enjoy the sunshine and countryside. Before long I reached Bojden, just as the ferry arrived from Fynshav; a short 10km crossing to Als and Jutland.

After enjoying a hot chocolate and pastry on the ferry I pedalled on from Fynshav to Sonderborg, which didn’t seem to take very long, arriving in time for lunch. I walked through the town stopping to buy a hotdog from one of the many purveyors of such fine foodstuffs.

Sonderborg and first hotdog of the day

Sonderborg and first hotdog of the day

Hotdogs in Denmark appear to be very popular, with several different varieties. I preferred the Ristet, which comes inside a bun and is topped with pickled cucumber, crispy onions, mustard, ketchup, and remoulade.

Lots of people out in cafes in Sonderborg

Lots of people out in cafes in Sonderborg

Needing to use up my Danish Krone and I decided I’d eat my way through the rest of Denmark, and had another Ristet for good measure; I’ve been losing too much weight anyway, at least that was my excuse.

Sonderborg waterfront

Sonderborg waterfront

I paused on the bridge out of Sonderborg, hoping that the folks at home might be able to see me on the webcam, but also to stop as the middle section was raised for a boat to come through. Unfortunately I couldn’t delay long as it was just too busy, and I’m not sure I timed it right for the webcam. I cycled on to Dybol, then turned South and crossed the small island before rejoining Jutland; lovely quiet roads and cycle paths again.

Marina - Egernsund

Marina – Egernsund

I followed the Route 8 cycle path a lot of the time, not out of any particular design, it was just going in the right direction. I was also having a day of being open to possibilities, so if I saw a cycle track or nice road that went the way I wanted it to, I took it. I rode down the side of Flensburger Ford, through a number of small towns. This is obviously quite a big tourist spot, and very beautiful, with some lovely yachts out on the water (when I win the lottery etc).

After relaxing next to the Fjord for a bit, and of course taking on vital nourishment, I thought I’d better get on with the task at hand. I continued to follow Route 8, which decided to take me off-road and through the woods for a bit, as I got closer to the border with Germany.

Route 8 goes off road

Route 8 goes off road

It was slightly awkward cycling for a bit, and my bike developed an annoying squeak which I couldn’t identify the source of; it’s still doing occasionally now, a few days later, and I don’t know what’s causing it – I’d better investigate further in case it’s a problem that’s going to get worse.

Route 8 - the forest continues

Route 8 – the forest continues

I finally made it out of the trees, which had provided some welcome shade and smelt nice, and could see Germany across the bay. There was a beach and people swimming; in fact one cyclist arrived in the spot below and decided to go for a swim; I nearly joined them.

Route 8 - that's Germany over there

Route 8 – that’s Germany over there

In this case I resisted the temptation of a dip, as I needed to get through Flensburg, and carried on towards the border. I was keeping an eye out for customs officials as I’d seen a few signs suggesting they might patrol round here, but didn’t see any. In  fact, when I got back on the road, I barely noticed crossing into Germany.

Beach just across the border in Germany

Beach just across the border in Germany

For some reason my Garmin decided to switch off at this point, so I had to restart it and my route tracking, hence there are two links to today’s ride; a total of 119km pedalled in 6 hours and 45 minutes:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/793985036

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/793991399

I was in country number 6 of this tour! I rode on to Flensburg and walked through some of the city. Again there were a lot of tourists out and about, enjoying the sunshine and street cafes. Flensburg looks nice, with some lovely older parts to it.

The cobbled streets were slightly jarring on my still wonky hand, and always make me worry about my wheels, however I made it through and cycled South the Jarplund, where the ACSI app on my phone told me there was a campsite. It was a bit of a maze getting out of Flensburg whilst trying to avoid the busier main roads, and stay on cycle paths. I made it to the campsite but had to go around the houses a bit to get there.

At the campsite I met up with 3 other cycle tourers from Stuttgart, as well as an Italian motorcyclist from Italy; Larissa, Romulus, Alex and Claudio. Claudio is on his way to Iceland, and will be getting the ferry with his motorbike from North Denmark; there are a limited number of ways of getting to Iceland by ferry. Larissa, Alex and Romulus were just finishing a week of touring around Northern Germany, and are heading home on Saturday; Romulus has done loads of cycle touring in the past though.

Campsite in Jarplund - fun evening with new friends

Campsite in Jarplund – fun evening with new friends

Needless to say a fun evening was had, with a few beers and lots of chat about Europe, travelling, politics, and the economy, to name but a few topics. Claudio cooked pasta for everyone which was most welcome; in fact he kept producing food from his motorbike panniers. Thanks Claudio! Hopefully I’ll meet up with the all somewhere on the road in the future.

One thing about a new country – you have to relearn things in the supermarkets; took me about twice as long to pick up supplies, however at least they still have mountains of Haribo still.

All in all, a splendid day!

03 June 2015 – a bridge too far?

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A fairly brief update from today’s ride, mainly due to the fact it was dominated by one thing, the wind, which isn’t that interesting. I still managed to cover about 110km in 7 hours and 20 minutes of pedalling (slow); here’s the link to my route and stats:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/793183309

You’ll notice a few of those kilometres were on the ferry from Tars to Spodsbjerg, providing a welcome respite from the elements!

I slept well at Ore Sound camping, just outside Vordingborg, despite the wind in the trees making a racket all night; still, makes me feel cosy in my tent.

Morning in Vordingborg - dry but windy still

Morning in Vordingborg – dry but windy still

I was on the road in good time, and pedalled back into Vordingborg to a bike shop I’d passed yesterday to buy some more puncture repair glue; can’t be too careful, and I figured if I bought some I’d hopefully not need it, as opposed to not buying some and then immediately getting a puncture.

Bike shop for more puncture repair glue

Bike shop for more puncture repair glue

Strange statues in Vordingborg, not sure what this one is about? Vaguely Lovecraftian

Strange statues in Vordingborg, not sure what this one is about? Vaguely Lovecraftian

With the wind swirling about, but mostly being a strong westerly, I rode over the first bridge to the island of Falster. This is where I discovered it’s even more windy on exposed bridges, however at least it wasn’t raining.

it was only a short leg over Falster, followed by a small bridge over to Guldborg on Lolland, a slightly bigger island.

Bridge 2 to Guldborg, Lolland

Bridge 2 to Guldborg, Lolland

I stopped in the square in Maribo, where there was a small market going on, and had a break; Haribo in Maribo, plus bananas of course.

Break in Maribo - market on 2

Break in Maribo – market on 2

After recovering a bit I rode on via a marked cycle route, when it didn’t divert me miles off course, down to Tars.

Cycle route to Tars - a rare hedge provides a wind break

Cycle route to Tars – a rare hedge provides a wind break

Denmark needs to plant more hedges, there weren’t enough.

This was a really tough section of the ride, and very tiring. The wind, as well as making riding difficult, is a constant noise in your ears blocking out any other sound, so it’s hard to take anything else in. All you end up focusing on in a strong headwind is keeping going, and making another kilometre.

Nice church en-route to Tars

Nice church en-route to Tars

I did however notice my left hand pedal start to squeak. This isn’t anything particularly out of the ordinary, random squeaks start and stop quite often whilst cycling, however coupled with the harsh conditions it added to my annoyance, and resulted in some choice words being vocalised in a loud fashion; no-one else around to hear luckily, aside from some slightly startled crows looking for shoes.

I just made the ferry over to Spodsbjerg on Langeland, with about 3 minutes to spare, and had a nice break on the 10km crossing; think it was about 10km anyway.

Made the ferry, on my way to Langeland

Made the ferry, on my way to Langeland

I indulged in a hotdog and Fanta, topping up my energy reserves and morale. It was quite a rough crossing, with a few waves breaking over the bow and soaking one unfortunate passenger; I must admit I laughed this. I was mostly hoping my bike didn’t get tossed about too badly, as even though I’d tied Smaug down there were a few big hits.

After the ferry I pedalled over Langeland quite quickly, following a marked cycle route for the most part, before taking on the next challenge; a set of two bridges over to Tasinge.

Cosy cycle path next bridge

Cosy cycle path to next bridge

The first bridge was quite high, and very exposed. I ended up walking my bike over some of it as the cross wind was just to strong to go in a straight line. I made up a marching song about Denmark and strong wind which I’d better repeat right now, but it might come out in the pub at some point.

After the mini island of Sia the second bridge was flatter and more manageable, but it was a relief to get over to Tasinge.

Bridge to Tasinge

Bridge to Tasinge

Bridge to Tasinge 2

Bridge to Tasinge 2

I passed a few cycle tourers going the other way as I approached my destination for the night, with smiles and waves giving me a much-needed boost. I’m not sure where they were going to stop for the night, but if they were camping on one of the smaller islands they were in for a rough night.

I ended up stopping just prior to the bridge over to Svendborg, turning off to a campsite near Vindeby; Svendborg Sund Camping. As with many of my camping stops I’d found this site using the ACSI app on my phone, which is proving very useful.

Arrived at Svendborg Sund Campsite - a relief

Arrived at Svendborg Sund Campsite – a relief

Svendborg Sund is a lovely campsite, and the owner was very welcoming, pointing me in the direction of a picturesque and sheltered place to pitch my tent.

Cold one form the Lobster bar, nice view

Cold one form the Lobster bar, nice view

I bought a couple of recovery beers from the campsite shop, then set up, had a hot shower, and felt a lot better. I felt a sense of accomplishment at having overcome the headwind to manage a respectable distance for the day.

Double thumbs up after a hard day's ride

Double thumbs up after a hard day’s ride

It was nice to settle down in the common room for the evening, and plan the next day’s ride. Just down the hill I watched a young man setting up quite a display which he later used to propose to his girlfriend; there was a small pavilion tent, a rose lined carpet to it, candles and all sorts going on. I didn’t take a photo as didn’t want to interrupt; he already looked very nervous. Hope he got a good result!

Office set up for the evening

Office set up for the evening

Excited about tomorrow; wind is supposed to drop, and pedalling out of Denmark to Flensburg in Germany, so last night in Scandinavia. Really feel like I’m making progress now, and looking forward to the next few weeks.

And yes, I’m wearing suncream Mum ;o)

02 June 2015 – spoke trauma and short leg to Vordingborg

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Okay, today was a bit crap, until the evening bit anyway. It started off alright, with no sign of rain, and a successful fix of the puncture in my front tyre, then I headed into town for 09.00 to see about getting my broken spoke fixed; tip of iceberg springs to mind.

Morning at Koge campsite - dry at the moment

Morning at Koge campsite – dry at the moment

Unfortunately I discovered the bike shop I’d pinpointed last night doesn’t open until 10.00, so in a fit efficiency I whizzed back to the campsite and packed up my stuff, so I could get straight on the road after maintenance was completed.

I liked this big Oak Tree

I liked this big Oak Tree

About 6 kilometres later I was back at the bike shop and checked-in Smaug, or at least his wheels, for a bit of TLC. The bike shop owner recommended a local cafe whilst he performed an initial diagnosis, so I headed there for my own bit of maintenance.

Smaug undergoing maintenance, so I thought I would too

Smaug undergoing maintenance, so I thought I would too

The cafe did a very good Danish pastry and hot chocolate, and feeling things were moving in the right direction I ambled back to Garant Cykler to get on the road. It started to rain; not to worry I thought, it’ll only be a shower, the forecast said overcast but dry all afternoon. Hah!

Garant Cykler - great bike shop in Koge

Garant Cykler – great bike shop in Koge

The bike shop didn’t have the greatest news on Smaug’s wellbeing. Unfortunately the spoke issue was not contained to just one spoke. A few days ago the chain had slipped off the top rear cog, and had slid down in between the rear cassette and spokes. I’d extracted it but unbeknownst to me at the time, it had chewed up several of the spokes on the drive side. This meant they were also in danger of snapping and needed replacing. You can’t see this sort of damage unless you remove the rear cassette, which I don’t have the tool for. Thankfully the owner is also a proficient wheel builder, and did a great job of replacing the dodgy spokes and truing the wheel, despite being stacked up with other work. It took him quite a long time and one broken set of clippers to remove the compromised spokes, which due to being chewed up didn’t fit back through the spoke holes very well; tricky. Whilst he was doing this I mended the punctured inner tube I’d kept, for future use.

If you’re familiar with my Bike around Britain tour in 2013 you’ll perhaps know I had a lot of trouble with my back wheel and broken spokes then. It seems to be a feature of cycle touring, with so much weight on the bike, however hand-built wheel help with this, and I’d hoped having 26 inch wheels, which are stronger than their larger counterparts, would also assist in preventing issues. So I had a feeling of ‘oh no, not again’ building, with not a small amount of dread. I was therefore extremely happy when the owner presented me with the fixed wheel to put back on Smaug, and we then adjusted the gears to stop the chain slipping off again; I reckon  the shifters got moved slightly out of alignment during the plane flight to Nordkapp, as I’d noticed a few things knocked out of kilter and tried to move them back into place.

Smaug fixed - thanks Garant Cykler

Smaug fixed – thanks Garant Cykler

I was also going to pick up a couple of new inner tubes, just in case, however it appears Schrader valves are pretty rare in Denmark, where they go for Presta more. I’ll just have to fix any punctures I get before buying some new ones in Germany. I’ve still got one spare, even after another one blew up in the bike shop due to a weak spot. I bought up a couple of new tyre levers after breaking one this morning; getting Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on and off is hard work, and I’m not the best bike mechanic you’ve ever met, very amateur really.

Just realised my pump will fit either Schrader or Presta valves; reversible hose. So I could get Presta valve inner tubes.

If you’re cycle touring and pass through Koge, I’d recommend Garant Cykler if you need anything fixing or tweaking; good skills and really helpful. I really appreciated their assistance, and don’t know what I’d have done if the breakage had happened somewhere more remote; I’d have no doubt coped, and improvised something, but it would have been a much more painful experience.

I eventually got back on the road and started pedalling South, in the rain, at about 12.30, so quite a bit behind schedule for the day but not too worry, these things happen. It was wet and windy all the way to Vordingbord, so not a lot to report other than rain, spray, wind, and crankiness. I did get another puncture in my front tyre, which I fixed, however I’m developing a suspicion that the replacement Schwalbe tubes I’ve got aren’t as tough as the original Continental tourers I had on.

D'oh - yet another puncture

D’oh – yet another puncture

My no puncture stat from the other day definitely jinxed my run good luck on the wheel/tyre front, however hopefully that’ll be the last of them for a while; I don’t know why I say these things!

Break from the rain en-route to Vordingborg

Break from the rain en-route to Vordingborg

For a while my morale really dipped on the ride down to Vordingbord. It was only 60km, but the incessant rain, coupled with the driving wind, really grinds you down after a while.  After a break I enforced a change of mental state on myself, accepting the weather, putting a big smile on my face, and belting out a few songs; American Pie always a favourite. It always seems to work, you can either gradually spiral down to a meltdown, or pick yourself up and think positive. The weather certainly hadn’t got any better but my morale suddenly improved, although I probably confused a few people in the towns I passed through by smiling at waving at them.

Vordingbord achieved I decided that was far enough for the day, and checked-in to the Ore Strand campsite, still smiling; insanity can’t be ruled out.

Arrived at campsite in Vordingborg - still smiling

Arrived at campsite in Vordingborg – still smiling

It’s a great little campsite, right next to the beach, with a good kitchen area I could sit in to get out of the wind; thankfully the rain had stopped. I nipped to Lidyl once I was set up, to resupply, then settled in for the evening, munching my way through a lot of pasta, salad, and snacks, as well as a glass of wine or two for medicinal purposes.

Haribo heaven - visit to Lidyl

Haribo heaven – visit to Lidyl

I took a wander down to the beach, just to stretch my muscles after the short but arduous ride; bit damp but would be nice when the sun shines.

There was meeting of the Ore Strand beach committee in the kitchen building that evening, which I kinda inadvertently gate-crashed by being there at the same time. I chatted to several of the locals, and got given a Danish pastry to top up my energy reserves; a good result. Really lovely people, interested in what I was doing, and they recommended I take the island hopping route rather that getting the ferry straight over to Germany, so I think I’ll do that.

Link to today’s route and stats, shortest leg for a while at 58km in about 3.5 hours:

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/792180933

The weather forecast doesn’t look great for tomorrow. It’s supposed to improve later in the week, so finger’s crossed. However, if one more person in Scandinavia shrugs and says ‘that’s Danish weather for you’, or insert Sweden or Norway to that statement, there may be violence. I’ve heard that in every country I’ve been through, including the UK, in response to changing weather and it not matching the forecast!

News just in; I’m in Svendborg tonight typing this up, and the campsite owner just told me there’s been 2m of snow in parts of Norway, which is really unusual for this time of year. The bad weather is supposed to continue for the next few days, so I’m glad I’m not there now, and hope no other cycle tourers are stuck in it.

01 June 2015 – København, Koge, and things that pop and ping

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To say it rained a bit last night would perhaps be regarded as an understatement. I awoke in the early hours of the morning to the thunderous roar of rain hitting my tent, and was somewhat alarmed I’d spring a leak, or get washed into the Oresund, however I’m happy to report I remained dry; another win for the Hilleberg Akto, now 3 years old but still going strong.

Smaug looks damp after torrential rain overnight

Smaug looks damp after torrential rain overnight

After the overnight rain at least there was sunshine in morning to dry off everything off, including a rather despondent looking Smaug. And for a change I didn’t have to pack my tent up  wet! Today was also a new map day, always exciting; time to explore Denmark. I’m still wondering if I can get to Tarifa by 05 July, my birthday. It seems a bit of a stretch and might mean rushing things too much, but would be nice to celebrate my fortieth at the Southernmost point of Europe, or thereabouts.

New map day, always exciting

New map day, always exciting

Got on the road about 09.30, pedalling out of the campsite past the small tent of the cycle tourer I met last night; no sign of life, I hope she didn’t drown. The tiredness I first felt wore off quickly as I rode towards Copenhagen (Kobenhavn – havn means port, but can see where the word haven comes from) in the sunshine. Even the wind seemed to die down a bit as I approached Denmark’s capital, on the island of Zealand.

Road to Copenhagen - sun's out

Road to Copenhagen – sun’s out

I made it into the city centre after riding along lovely quiet cycle paths, to suddenly find myself immersed in masses of traffic and pedestrians, a bit of a shock to the system. Copenhagen also turned out to be somewhat of a building site, with development going on all over the place, including a new subway station right in the centre.

Copenhagen centre, flash hotel

Copenhagen centre, flash hotel

I overheard a tour guide talking about the hotel in the above pic; I think she said One Direction stayed there recently, woohoo. Of more interest was the story about a Danish hero who attempted to assassinate Himmler when he was travelling back from Norway to Berlin during the Second World War; Denmark was occupied at the time. Unfortunately Himmler bypassed Copenhagen in the end, otherwise certain historical events might have turned out quite differently. I think tagging on to, or drifting between guided tours, might become a new hobby.

Copenhagen- canals

Copenhagen- canals

It was tricky to do much sightseeing with all the crowds and traffic, whilst laden with a heavy bike, so I didn’t end up delaying long in the city, instead pedalling slowly South West and stopping occasionally. I could have detoured to see the Little Mermaid statue, and Tivoli Gardens, however it would have been awkward and I wasn’t really in a sightseeing mood.

Copenhagen - bikes in abundance, bit of a building site though

Copenhagen – bikes in abundance, bit of a building site though

True to what I’d read Copenhagen really is full of bicycles, they’re everywhere. It will be interesting to see how Amsterdam compares if I go that way (still not decided).

Copenhagen - cool cafe

Copenhagen – cool cafe

Before I knew it I was out of Copenhagen, which I guess isn’t that large in comparison to other European capitals, and pedalling through suburbia. There’s not a lot to report from the ride down to Koge, it was fairly flat, straight, and boring. I did keep having to stop for traffic lights which was a bit tedious, and interrupts your rhythm. The cycle paths are good but I’m really noticing the increase in cars compared with Sweden.

I arrived in Koge after having to stop to pump up my rear tyre several times. After recording in my last blog post a puncture total of zero, I fear the tables have turned, and perhaps I have attracted the attention of Loki again. Luckily it was only a slow puncture so I was able to get to Koge campsite, book in, and get set up before addressing the issue.

Bike repairs - 1st puncture of tour

Bike repairs – 1st puncture of tour

I mended the puncture successful, thankful of the dry weather, but noticed a more nefarious problem during my endeavours.

Found a bigger problem - broken spoke

Found a bigger problem – broken spoke

Unfortunately a spoke had broken somewhere along the way; I thought I’d heard a distinctive ping earlier. It was on the rear drive side too, which I can’t fix as I don’t have a cassette removal device; maybe I should have bought a hyper cracker . Thankfully there are loads of bike shops in Koge, and the guy at reception recommended a couple for me to try in the morning, so I’d be able to get it sorted. There was no point in just suring up the surrounding spokes and carrying on, as it’d just get worse, more spokes would break, and I’d find myself really in the lurch.

Koge - nice house

Koge – nice house

One good thing; as I was fixing a puncture I changed my front and back tyres around, thus prolonging their lives with any luck. I felt quite chuffed to be following sage cycle touring advice successfully, however those Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres aren’t half stiff to get on and off.

Koge central square

Koge central square

Bike maintenance partially completed I paused to chat to a couple of German cycle tourers who turned up towing trailers, on their way to Finland. They don’t like their trailers, and recounted how unstable they make the bike, meaning you can’t really stand up on the pedals or go fast down hills. I’ve often wondered about one myself but am quite glad now I didn’t go that direction, and will stick with my panniers.

After a shower, but still with slightly blackened hands (impossible to get them completely clean after maintenance session) I headed into town to grab some food, and ended up succumbing to temptation and eating out at the Cafe Vivaldi, in the town square.

Dinner at Cafe Vivaldi - Burrito boost

Dinner at Cafe Vivaldi – Burrito boost

It was truly awesome burrito, with a nice beer on the side; portion size worthy of any cycle tourer, and with a salad too, so health bit covered. Post dinner and after a quick walk about I headed back to the campsite.

Cafe Vivaldi, Koge

Cafe Vivaldi, Koge

Koge square - pretty flowers

Koge square – pretty flowers

Nice house again

Nice house again

Streets of Koge

Streets of Koge

On the way back I noticed my front tyre going flat, so I’d either pinched the inner tube when changing the tyres round earlier, or picked up new puncture somewhere; it turned out to be a small metal staple, but I didn’t fix it until the morning.

Here’s a link to today’s ride – route and stats, a slow 75km, taking 5 hours, best speed up soon;

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/791586108

Not sure on route for next few days. Could go direct to Germany by ferry from Rodby, or round the islands; will depend on the weather and if I want to get serious on challenge of getting to Tarifia for my birthday. I think I’d prefer the island route, as it’ll be nice to see a bit more of Denmark. I did try to work out the number of miles to Tarifa; think I’ve got about 2,000 left, or 4,500 to get to Istanbul, or 6,500 to get all the way round and back home. Should be doable in the 5 months I’ve got left, considering I’m already over 1,700 miles in under 1 month. I guess it also depends on any problems I have with the bike, which as I’d discover tomorrow should never be underestimated.